Delaware: Ebright Azimuth

So while in Washington for a January meeting I remembered I had yet to pass by Delaware's highpoint - Ebright Azimuth. So I took the drive from Washington DC over to visit some old historic sites connected to Sweden, like the Old Swedes church in Wilmington, Kalmare Nyckel shipyard etc.

And also the Delaware highpoint, which as it stands might be the least remarkable high-point in the nation. GPS location and directions are essential especially if driving in the dark, it has no significant prominence so you cannot easily locate it as the highest point in the general area... 

It has a bench, a nearby standing sign describing the location, and if searching carefully, a USGS marker nearby the walking path.

I somehow forgot to post this update and change the completed points to 47/50 but better late than never!

Stats:
State: Delaware
High point: Ebright Azimuth
Elevation: 448 ft (137 m)
Date: January 13, 2015
Total elevation to date: 259,481 ft (79,090 m)
Access: drive-up
Difficulty rating (of 10): 1
Potential Difficulties: locating it, if dark...

(ND-) South Dakota: Harney Peak

The second highpoint on this miniature stint was the higher of the two Dakotas, and claimed highest point east of the Rockies and west of the Pyrenees (more on this preposterous claim further down)... South Dakota's Harney Peak. 

The trail starts near Sylvan lake which is gorgeously located among forest and exposed rock in the black Hills. I didn't get too early of a start but managed to get on the trails by 830 in the basking morning sun. After having spendt the night in Custer, SD, and having visited Mt. Rushmore in the dark the night before which comes highly recommended.

Most aceess trails start in the Custer state park, but also enters a wilderness area. I can recommend taking trail #4 for some varied sight along the more commonly traveled #9 trail. Such as as old stone and shale excavation area seen below.

Most of the trail is nice and gradually rising. The most spectacular part is probably the fact that the trail itself and all surrounding stone glimmers and glitters in the sun as if walking on a mixture of glass, silver and diamonds at times.

 

It is unfortunately very hard to capture the shiny features with a single photography, as the sparkles change from one spot to another when walking creating the mesmerizing effect.

Littered along the trail is lots of plants, flowers, bushes and berries that I feel right at home with coming from Sweden. Among them plentiful bushes of Raspberries, small, but with fantastic flavor.

Along the #4 trail is a spur to Little Devils tower which is seen as depicted from the decent on Trail #9 below. It does indeed resemble devils tower but in much smaller scale.

The hike up to the top of the Little devils tower is mostly class 2 scrambling, on stone slabs or cracks as seen below.

The view afforded form the top however is truly well worth the extra mile it adds to the hike. You get a very clear view of Harney Peak as seen below with the lookout tower seen in the center of the picture.

It also shows that there will be a quite roundabout way to reach the top to follow some of the less exposed areas. Additionally the top of the Little devils tower offers some great views of local stone spires/cathedral formations that would offer some highly varied and exciting rock climbing.

Before getting within direct view of the lookout tower the trails enter the Black Elk Wilderness, make sure to fill in the required tags and deposit one while carrying the other with yourself until exiting the wilderness again. (No fees required, however Custer State park has a entry fee.)

The last streches of the trail crosses under some stone cracks and uses metal stairs to wind upwards towards the lookout tower.

On the top of Harney Peak is a lookout tower and former fire spotting tower. The tower is open to access and offers some improved nice vistas, especially since it is perched quite close to a drop-off towards the north offering a sense of prominence that otherwise is hard to find between all the various peaks and hills in the Black Hills.

On the tower itself there is a memorial plaque that is clearly younger than the tower since it lists part of the locations history. However it is blatantly wrong it it's claim. from the Pyrenees there is a certain number of landmasses such as Africa in which Morocco have loads of higher mountains to the west of the Pyrenees. Likewise the Canary Islands are located in the Atlantic and offers the 3rd highest volcano on a volcanic island after 2 volcanoes on Hawai'i (the state highpoint being one of them). Additionally, Greenland is situated even closer from the east which also exhibit much higher peaks... In fact just going North to Canada the highest point in Nunavut it higher further east of the Rockies, so the first claim isn't even true for north america, even Mexico show multiple higher points to the east of the Rockies (and even higher than the Rockies) (so does several counties in Latin and South America also.)... So not really correct even in the most generous interpretation of any of the statements regarding prominence... "Highest in USA east of the Rockies" could be close to the truth if it weren't for the big Bend national park and mountains in Texas which is further east... Trying to point out some resemblance if prominence north-south is equally futile I'm afraid even when limiting just to american geography... Geography outside of USA can be tricky though, and in this case even american geography was apparently too much  ;)

Nevertheless the breathtaking views, the shimmering Black Hills offers a sensation making it easy to appreciate the sacredness of the area to the native Americans that were unfortunately mostly forced away from the region. Recent evolution of the narrative, and South Dakota even celebrating Native american day instead of Columbus day, will hopefully keep moving the information forward. As well as showcase this beautiful region of South Dakota for current and future generations to enjoy and treasure.

It can be noted that the weather can shift quickly in the region, and the heat during good weather can dehydrate you quickly, so make sure to bring an adequate amount of liquids, especially of doing a few of the side spurs, and taking any of the longer approaches (trail #4 highly recommended).

Stats:
State: South Dakota
High point: Harney Peak 
Elevation: 7 242 ft (2 207m)
Date: August 9, 2014
Total elevation to date: 259 033 ft (78 953 m)
Access: Hike, class 1
Difficulty rating (of 10): 4
Potential Difficulties: Inclement weather

North Dakota: White Butte (-SD)

Not to belittle the Dakotas, but I had yet have any specific reason to travel anywhere near the Dakotas so both the North and South Dakota highpoints were left on my list for quite a while. But finally I had a chance to travel and see the Dakotas, and during Sturgis Bike week nonetheless!

The trip went to North Dakotaäs White Butte first. It is a nice location on midland/highland plains. The highpoint itself is a 30-60 minute hike one+way depending on how close you can get with a car on the gravel/two-track roads (high clearance and luck with limited mud pits required for close approach by vehicle). On the picture below the high point is the left peak above grass and a small tree-clearing.

The approaching hike is full of interesting geological formations form rain and erosion, but also the cause of massive mud areas if unlucky with recent rains. In my case it was close to bone dry however.

There is also local deposits of volcanic rocks near the base of the hill, well worth botanizing for the various colors and formations seen. The general area is also prime for fossilized bones, and the "T-rex capital of the world" is not far away in South Dakota. Obsidian can also be found in the area.

Other interesting rock formations include remnants of circular meter-wide harder rock that case interesting tower formations in connection to softer stone eroding around them, They also have very interesting circular patterns indicating their origin/formation.

The highpoint itself is reached within 30 minutes from the base of the hill, and is marked with a USGS marker and a box for signing a highpoint ledger.

Although not having a particular high prominence the views form the White Butte is very impressive and stretch for long distances in fortunate weather, like I had that day. The grassy areas are prone to rattle snakes, but I saw and heard none, but bringing a snake bite kit feels like a cheap added insurance well worth bringing.

Stats:
State: North Dakota
High point: White Butte
Elevation: 3 506 ft (1 087 m)
Date: August 8, 2014
Total elevation to date: 251 791 ft (76 746 m)
Access: Hike, class 1
Difficulty rating (of 10): 2
Potential Difficulties: Mud, Rattlesnakes

(OK-) Texas: Guadalupe Peak

While still in New Mexico on work I also had the chance to swing by Texas on a "calm" day. Guadalupe peak is a gorgeous mountain with an impressive prominence in an otherwise calm area over looking salt flats and having sight such as Carlsbad Caverns nearby.

The hike up the mountain is a nice, albeit dry, hike on a well maintained trail. The hike is short and decently steep for a good workout and a quick progress up the Mountain to reach early vistas of the surroundings. Brian W. joined me for the hike to the top of Texas.

The trailhead is conveniently located near a major road so access is real easy and part of the road can be sene in the photo above. Much of the trail had very prominent rock crystals visible in large crystaline peices. Which were osme of the most clear rock crystals I've ever seen out hiking.

On the top there is a small monument. The shear prominence of the peak will often lead to high winds as the weather tries to nagigate the topography. Thus one cools down very quick while enjoying the top for a few minutes.

In the background from Guadalupe peak one can see the peak "El Capitain" which is a nice peak with a very significant drop-off to the south. So not for the faint of heart when it comes to vertigo.

Eve the hike up Guadalupe peak  offers some nice safe exposure as the trail hugs the mountian side and pass a small bridge along a cliff. seen in the photo below.

The area offers mostly desert-like vegetation with cacti, and wild flowers that can clad the whole mountain and surrounding valley with beautiful colors year around.

Delicious Prickly Pears can be found high up the mountain and further down the valley we were treated to sights of the threatened Texas madrone, which is characterized by its bright red berries and distinctive orange bark.

All in all we were treated to blue skies, quite good visibility and a nice cooling breeze on the hike up. A visit to Guadalupe Peak is recommended for Texans and non-Texans alike and offers a different side of Texas, while still keeping true to the Big and Impressive motto...

Stats:
State: Texas
High point: Guadalupe Peak
Elevation:  8 749 ft (2667 m)
Date: October 14th, 2012
Total elevation to date: 248 285 ft (75 677 m)
Access: hike, class 1, moderately strenuous
Difficulty rating (of 10): 4
Potential Difficulties: strong winds, high temperatures, dehydration

Oklahoma: Black Mesa (-TX)

Oklahoma's highpoint Black mesa is indeed the top of a mesa as the name indicates, although fittingly enough it is also one of the largest mesas in all of US. The trek is about 4.2 miles one-way along a well signed path that starts below the mesa and after about 2 miles turn up to the plateau. 

The lanscape along the path shows many interesting rock formations and smaller table-top mountains such as the one seen below.

Once you reach the top of the plateau the only minor obstacle is that it is deceptively flat so figuring out where the high point really lies is not too easy. Just following the trail though you get to the marker for the highpoint eventually.

I went with Brian and we decided to try to bushwhack a bit on the way back to save a few minutes (or half a mile), that is kind of risky though due to the abundance of cacti, especially dried out dead cacti which easily pierce shoes with the needles. We made it back in one piece though, but the time saved was probably quite negligible.

A USGS marker pointing out it is unlawful to molest (?!?) marks the elevation and highest spot in the state of the Sooners.

Stats:
State: Oklahoma
Elevation: 4 973 ft (1 515.8 m)
High point: Black Mesa
Date: October 13th, 2012
Total elevation to date: 239536  ft (73 011 m)
Access: hike, class 1
Difficulty rating (of 10): 3
Potential Difficulties: getting lost on top of the mesa. Cactus needles...

(MS-LA-) Arkansas: Mt Magazine (-MO)

Arkansas' Magazine Mountain proved to be the highest and most "mountainy" on this trip. SO much that the weather changed severely when going towards the top with the car, extremely dense fog with barely 30ft (10 m) visibility quickly surrounded us and made way-finding very hard. It did slow us to a crawl in the car though so the chance of accidents was pretty much reduced.

The new state park lodge proved to be a blessing as we decided to stop there for lodging for the night and then hike in the morning instead.

The next morning revealed great views from our room, and the breakfast room seen above was gorgeous. The mosquito net on the windows makes the view look less impressive in the photo below however.

The hike was fairly short and we had no rain although temperatures were fairly low around the freezing point.

There was a limited view from the top of the mountain due to trees, but one could see the valleys below as well as a another peak which looked surprisingly close in elevation.

Stats:
State: Arkansas
High point: Mt Magazine
Elevation: 2 753 ft (839 m)
Date: November 27, 2011
Total elevation to date: 176 161  ft (53 694 m)
Access: hike, class 1
Difficulty rating (of 10): 2
Potential Difficulties: Finding the trail-head (fog!).

New York: Mt Marcy (-VT)

There are still a few states within Driving distance from Michigan that have yet to be climbed. New York and Vermont was therefore the destination of a roadtrip covering  almost 1000 miles in Canada, and Niagara Falls among other things. Mt Marcy in New York is a lengthy day hike of just under 15 miles round trip. The elevation is not too high, and the elevation gain is spread over a long distance. After a few miles one can see some of the surrounding peaks in the direction of Mt Marcy as can be seen in the background behind Tricia...

The main "difficulty of the trail (Van Hoevenberg trail) was the variety of the trail. some sections were nice, while large portions looked more like a jumble of stones meaning the hiking shoes came into good usage (almost too good, judging by the blisters).

After some long struggling towards the top one is met in best case by good weather and loads of happy people,  and in worst case thunderstorms or hail together with swiftly dropping temperatures. This high point might have been the most trafficked I've ever seen, it was 30-50 people just on the top, and the trail was filled with hundreds of Canadians, mostly french speaking, but also some English speaking, indicating the proximity to Montreal. The top is marked by a USGS marker seen below.

As well as a plaque with information. The peak was also the home to summit stewards during the well traveled season. They warn people regarding the fragile nature and teach people to maintain the trail. a nice initiative, and considering the remoteness of the peak very impressive to have park personnel present there who have to hike there by foot.

 Some painstakingly slow hours on the decent was later rewarded with a hot tub and soft bed in Plattsburgh. Getting to Vermont the next morning meant having to take ferries from New your state across Lake Champlain.

Stats:
State: New York
High point: Mount Marcy
Elevation: 5 344 ft (1 629 m)
Date: August 6th, 2011
Total elevation to date: 155 012  ft (47 248 m)
Access: Hike, 15 miles round trip 9h
Difficulty rating (of 10): 5
Potential Difficulties: Fatigue, weather (very changeable on top).

(NM-AZ-NV) California: Mt Whitney, Highest point in continental US

Last but definitely not the 'least' was Mt Whitney, the highpoint of California. Having picked up a hikers permit the day before I had gone to bed before realizing the notion that I was going to attempt The highest mountain in continental USA the next morning. The clock rang quite mercilessly in the morning for some improvised breakfast in my room, and then a 1.5h drive to Whitney portal.The sun was rising along my whole ride and at 6.30 in the morning I was almost ready to start hiking.

Magnificent vistas presented themselves within the hour, and waterfalls mixed with pine forest and spectacular rocky mountains were presenting themselves everywhere. Of which you can see all three in the photo below.

Going upwards I was well aware of the fact that I had started many hours after the second last dayhiker had departed, but my lack of rest the night before and fear of sore legs meant I felt it better to keep a high steady tempo when I finally got started rather then setting of at a time in the morning where I would be anything by cheerful. The sun warming up the mountainside was a good extra motivation without presenting any excessive heat. Within just over an hour I had reached lone pine lake which is the first of 3 lakes to pass on the Whitney trail. Likewise 3 small lakes would be passed on the Mountaineers route  but I decided against it in the morning considering my late departure and the chance of being below all other climbers on that route with much loose stones. I could also leave ice axe and crampons behind then. Although it turned out I could have used them also on the main trial, but managing without them was no major challenge.

About 1 third of the 11 miles upwards were passed after 2h and it looked ok, considering I had decided to set a hard turn around time at 2pm at the latest. I did save some weight without ice axes but I did notice that I was almost alone without walking sticks. As for walking itself I like keeping balance without sticks unless winds go above 40 mph. But when facing a high number of streams like the one below, which required balancing and tiptoeing even on submerged rocks (water depths often above a foot), some balancing tools would have come in handy. I stayed mostly dry though so no harm done...

Below is a minor video taken on the ascent, at which time I was still on very good vigor, and I was also just about to pass the first people going up rather than just meeting a few people going down from the previous day and over-night camps.

Quite early one can see the needles that is the west edge of the ridge that Mt Whitney belongs too, and while the keep many thousands of feet above you with an extremely steep face in your direction it is somewhat curious as to where one will go up the trail when not actually look at a more detailed map outlining it all. The "lower" peaks in the center left is where we are heading...

At about 9000 ft, or 2700m the first snow started appearing, and the forecast for the peak was a high of 42 degrees (6 degrees C), so at higher altitude one should expect snow. What I never imagined though in July was to see lakes filled with massive ice chunks. Partly because any lake would have to be quite a bit lower in altitude and partly because when hiking in the sun it was very agreeable weather especially at up to 12 000 ft (3 600 m) where the Consultation Lake is situated and pictured below. It is also the location of Trail camp which is the higher of 2 camp sites along the way. Note that a night at that altitude will be very hard to take without some acclimatization on the way!

Shortly after the camp starts the 99 switchbacks which is what brings one up to the ridge while climbing a fairly steep, and partly snow and ice covered trial. The trial itself is a work of art considering it's location and the work it must have required the men to make it. A look up the east side of the mountains can be seen below.

Finally up on the ridge it is a "easy" 2 full miles to get to the peak, where the rail first goes down a bit to intersect with the John Muir Trail. Getting over the ridge one has a great opportunity for some really stunning views to the west.

As can be seen from my smile I was more than comfortable still, and it wasn't until close to a mile from the top, that I started to feel the adverse effects of the altitude! The first part of the hike along the ridge was  not very exposed to winds either, but the later parts forced me to put on some additional clothing.

The high sierras do offer some good views even driving around in the valleys. but they are truly inspiring when looking out form a ridge or point of higher elevation! Seeing glaciers, ice lakes, valleys with 100 degree temperatures (40 Celsius) all in one view is truly remarkable.

I had brought a good topographic map that showed that one side of the range was essentially a steep cliff, the other side however seemed to have much more spaced out contour lines suggesting much less inclination, by a factor 3-5. However as can barely be seen from the photo below, the east side really is extremely steep...

And 5 times less steep on the other side is like going from 88 degree inclination to 80. Meaning still steep as heck as can be seen from the photo below which is taken on the same spot as the one above! but in the opposite direction. The path was still fairly wide at 5-10 feet when counting the surrounding rocks, but that is still narrow if one happen to trip sideways...

Nothing bad happened on the ascent nor decent though. And after a about 2 miles crisscrossing but with a mild gradient upwards, a plateau presents itself and the mountain flattens out somewhat as can be seen in the picture below of the final stretch.

And all of a sudden the Smithsonian hut appears close to the peak. It is a really significant landmark, but you will not be able to see it from far down, nor before getting within a few hundred meters of it...

The picture below shows the approaching path that follows the small peaks from the south. The trail itself is also visible on the relatively flat part of the left side (click to enlarge photo).

The approaching valley of the Whitney trial is here seen together with pinnacle ridge going out from the left to right, ending in Thor peak.

The top shot was made in the Captain Morgan pose. Although I could not find my barrel of Rum, which was probably good, I would have loved a celebratory drink, but with 5h to go down, that would likely not have been the best of ideas. So instead it was fresh banana, energy bar, dried banana and some energized water that I feasted on. I should mention that the top was quite crowded at close to 30 people, and that continued from the last part of the ascent to about 12 000 ft on the decent at Trail Camp where the crowd then thinned out quickly.

Being a 22miles round trip (35km) the decent took me down at a good pace, although my legs started protesting with 2 hours to go and my feet started complaining especially the last hour, but rather than then the first hour when hiking for 12h! As can be seen below my taped and bruised feet were quite thrilled to be out of their shoes later in that evening.

This bottle was emptied around 12000 feet, and at the hotel at 3000 feet elevation the increased atmosperic pressure had done a good job illustrating just how much less air there is at higher altitudes, and adding 5000ft more elevation difference would show the difference from my home state Michigan to the top of Mt Whitney...

Lots of snow in the surroundings, but not too much on the path. 22miles round trip (35km), which took just under 12h to complete.

Full update to come.

Stats:
State: California
High point: Mount Whitney
Elevation: 14 494 ft (4 417 m)
Date: July 14, 2011
Total elevation to date: 149 668 ft (45 618 m)
Access: Hike, class 1 (up to class 4 exposure) 12h round trip minimum. 22 mi/35km round trip.
Difficulty rating (of 10): 7
Potential Difficulties: